Four Medications You Should Never Give a Cat

I am on the email list for Petplace.com and every so often they send an email that has important information I feel compelled to share just in case someone who sees this didn't know.  So - here you go - the four meds you should never give to a cat:

It is not uncommon for a well-intentioned owner to accidentally poison their cat with medications that are not intended for pets. You should NEVER give your cat medication without first checking with your veterinarian. But some medications used for humans are also given to animals under certain conditions.

So... what medications should you never give? I'll tell you. 

1. Aspirin - Toxicity from aspirin (salicylate toxicity) is poisoning which occurs following the ingestion of aspirin or aspirin-containing products. Cats are more susceptible than dogs to the effects of aspirin because they are unable to metabolize the drug as quickly. If your cat ingests aspirin, take him to a veterinarian as soon as possible for treatment. If you live more than 30 minutes from the veterinary hospital, call ahead for advice on whether or not to induce vomiting at home prior to transportation.

2. Ibuprofen - This is a popular and effective over-the-counter medication recommended for treating pain and inflammation in humans. For cats, ibuprofen can easily exceed toxic levels. The most common cause of ibuprofen toxicity is a well-meaning owner who tries to alleviate pain in his or her cat by administering a dose that the owner thinks is adequate, without knowing what a toxic dose might be. The initial toxic effect is bleeding stomach ulcers but increasing doses of ibuprofen eventually lead to kidney failure and, if left untreated, can be fatal. 

3. Pyrethrin and Permethrin Insecticides - The most common types of insecticide used to kill fleas are pyrethrins. Permethrin-based topical flea products are usually labeled "for use in dogs only." Application of permethrin-based insecticide to a cat will usually result in toxic signs within 6 hours which include drooling, lethargy, muscle tremors, vomiting, and seizures. 

4. Tylenol - Acetaminophen is a medication commonly used to alleviate fever and pain. Common brands include Tylenol®, Percoset®, the aspirin-free medication Excedrin®, and various sinus, cold and flu medications. Cats are much more sensitive to acetaminophen than dogs and are therefore more susceptible to acetaminophen toxicity. One regular strength acetaminophen tablet is toxic and potentially lethal to a cat. There is no home care for acetaminophen toxicity. 

Heatstroke in Ferrets

As the temps start to rise its important to remember that our little ferret friends don't tolerate the heat very well.  I found this great article about ferret heatstroke that has lots of good information.

What Should You Know About Heatstroke? Plenty!
© Erika Matulich, Ph.D.
Because ferrets don't tolerate heat well, ferret owners must take extra care during summer to prevent heat stress and heatstroke. The main reason ferrets have heat problems is that they can't sweat. Humans perspire to cool down, but ferrets can't do this. (Wild ferret relatives live in cold climates.) Dogs pant to move air over moisture in their mouths to cool themselves. Ferrets don't normally pant; if you see your ferrets panting, he is suffering from heat stress and is in danger of heatstroke. I once took Sweet Pea to the park for a walk, and although I was comfortable in the pleasant weather, she started to pant. I immediately gave her water and took her inside.

Prevention
Temperatures above 80 degrees Fahrenheit are uncomfortable for ferrets, temperatures above 85 can cause medical problems within hours, and temperatures above 90 can be fatal. Although ferrets can live through high temperatures, heat-related stress weakens their immune system and shortens their life. If the outdoor climate has temperatures above 80 degrees, ferrets should be kept indoors in a temperature-controlled environment.

These temperature guidelines assume low humidity levels (less than 40 percent). If you live in a humid climate, look at the heat index (a combination of temperature and relative humidity) rather than the actual temperature. If the thermometer reads 82 degrees F and the relative humidity is 80 percent, the heat index is 90, meaning that it feels to us like 90 degrees F. This is because higher humidity levels don't allow for moisture evaporation and heat dissipation from the skin. Although ferrets can't sweat, they still need to lose heat from their footpads, nose, ears, and mouth; high humidity doesn't allow for this. Because my ferrets and I live in South Florida, I pay special attention to humidity so that my fuzzies don't have problems.

To avoid heat stress, keep your ferret in an air-conditioned room, away from direct sunlight. Provide adequate water, and use ice or evaporative cooling to cool the surrounding air. Despite taking these precautions, you may have a ferret suffer from heat stress, which can quickly lead to heatstroke. Heatstroke can be fatal within minutes—one of the reasons you should never leave your ferret (or any pet or animal) in a parked car.

Symptoms
Your ferret may show initial signs of heat stress by being lethargic and lying flat on the floor. The ferret may have her mouth open, and her nose and gums might turn a darker pink (or white, if she is going into shock). If she is panting, salivating, or limp, or if she has red footpads, she is going into heatstroke. Further symptoms are a large quantity of mucus coming from the nose and mouth; collapse; seizures; and finally, coma.

A ferret's normal rectal body temperature is between 99 and 104 degrees F (the average is 101.9). Respiration should be 33 to 36 breaths per minute. Average heart rate should be 225 beats per minute. Higher temperatures, rapid pulse, and shallow breathing indicate heatstroke. To take a rectal temperature, shake down the thermometer, coat it with petroleum jelly, and insert it into the rectum a half inch. Wait one minute, remove, and read. You may need to have someone distract or restrain the ferret during this procedure.

I have also used ear thermometers; although they are much faster, I have noticed that temperatures register lower in the ear, so adjust accordingly. You may need to adjust downward by about 3 degrees. My ferrets' ears read between 96 and 100 degrees, with most at 98. When I get a new thermometer, I take a baseline temperature for each of my ferrets when they are not having any problems. That way, when they do have a health problem, I know whether they have a higher or lower temperature than normal.

First aid
In cases of heat stress and heatstroke, the goal is to lower the ferret's body temperature steadily, not suddenly. I know how hard it is to work slowly on a suffering ferret. I once found Sasha gasping for air, with bright-red ears, gums, and feet. In my panic to save her, I was tempted to dunk her in ice water, but this can be very dangerous. Keep your own head cool, remove your ferret from the heat, and start cooling slowly. If you cool your ferret too quickly, his temperature can drop to a dangerously low level.

Try offering water or Pedialyte (an infant formula that replenishes electrolytes) in a syringe. Drip it in the side of the mouth or under the tongue, making sure the ferret laps and swallows. Never force liquids into an unconscious animal. Wipe the ferret with a cool (not cold) towel, or wrap the ferret in a cool, damp washcloth. Concentrate on the feet, legs, hindquarters, groin, and tail area. Freshen the towel with cool water every few minutes. You can also dip the ferret in slightly cool water. Rubbing alcohol can be applied to the footpads (but nowhere else). Repeat until the rectal temperature reaches 103 degrees F. This may take a long time; I worked with Sasha for three hours before she stabilized.

Get to the vet
When your ferret has stabilized, go to the veterinarian immediately, even if the ferret seems fine. Your ferret may need treatment for dehydration or shock. Don't skip the veterinarian; ferrets can go into shock hours after the heatstroke symptoms have stopped. Sasha needed subcutaneous fluids and electrolytes. I'm glad to say that these methods saved Sasha, and they've gotten many other ferrets over heat stress and out of danger of heatstroke.

Wild ferrets Ferrets are naturally cool-climate animals. Domestic ferrets are descended from European polecats (not the American Black-Footed ferret). Today, European polecats live in England and north central Europe, where it is cool. Wild ferrets live in underground burrows, where they are protected from heat. Source:  http://www.cypresskeep.com/Ferretfiles/Heatstroke.htm

Stem Cell Therapy in Cats: What you Need to Know

Interesting article I came across - I think I would do whatever I could do for my furries - even if the treatment was somewhat controversial.  If I thought it would help them I would likely try it....

What would you do if you knew a controversial treatment could use your cat's own body to heal itself? Would you take on the risk and expense, or would you opt for more traditional methods? 

Some cat owners have taken the former road with the development of stem cell therapy. This newly popular technique puts aside traditional surgery and medication in favor of small injections of your pet's own cells. Used to treat conditions such as arthritis and ligament injuries, stem cell treatment (also known as regenerative medicine) is filled with potential as well as contention.

How Does Stem Cell Therapy Work?

Regenerative medicine works around the principle that the bodies of organisms produce cells called stem cells. These cells are able to differentiate, or mature into a wide variety of other body cells depending on which tissues surround them. A stem cell can develop into muscle, nerves, bone, and other body tissues. 

How is Stem Cell Therapy Used?

When a cat suffers from an injury, the stem cells surrounding the injury differentiate and begin healing the body. For example, stem cells might mature into ligament cells to repair an injury from running. 

Living things contain two types of stem cells: embryonic stem cells, which are present in early-stage embryos and develop into organisms; and adult stem cells, which are present in the tissues of mature organisms. Adult stem cells do not harm the organism when removed and do not prevent further development in any way. It is these cells which are used in regenerative veterinary medicine. 

What's Involved in a Stem Cell Treatment?

During stem cell treatment, a trained veterinarian uses a small syringe to remove fatty tissue from an animal's abdomen or back. This tissue is then sent to a lab, where it is centrifuged (or spun) to isolate and extract the stem cells. The cells are returned and then injected back into the animal's body in the affected area. As the cells interact with damaged tissue, they mature into healthy cells which can repair damage or injury. 

Because it requires no extensive surgery, regenerative therapy is accompanied by a much shorter recovery period and less pain for the animal. Some owners report seeing improvement in their pet's condition less than 36 hours after treatment. Surplus stem cells can be frozen for future injections, eliminating the need for repeat extractions. Veterinary stem cell treatment has been approved by the FDA for orthopedic problems in tendons and ligaments, as well as bone fractures and arthritis.

The ease and comfort of regenerative medicine doesn't come cheaply, however. A single cycle of treatment can cost between $2000 and $4000, and requires a knowledgeable veterinarian to perform the procedure. (Many veterinarians consider regenerative medicine to be an offshoot of alternative medicine, limiting the number of doctors certified to practice it.) According to Vet-Stem, the California-based leader in veterinary stem cell therapy, around 20% of owners see no improvement in their pet after treatment. That other 80%, however, have seen their beloved pets heal with a minimum of trauma and pain in exchange for taking a chance. 

In just a few years, stem cell therapy has gone from a hot topic on news channels to an eagerly embraced therapy for canine illness. With the current trend in treatment comes the hope that some day soon a similar course of therapy will be approved for use in humans. Thousands of animals are living a happier and healthier life due to regenerative medicine, and the full possibilities of the technology still remain to be seen. 

source:  http://www.petplace.com/cats/stem-cell-therapy-in-cats-what-you-need-to-know/page1.aspx

Ferret Vocalization: Noises and What They Mean

We have experienced some of these ferret noises around here - and thankfully - not experienced some others.  Clooney was always the silent ferret - dooking only occasionally  - but then the babies came along and Violet, in particular, taught him that he has a voice and now he uses it often.  Maddie is a dooker, Finn and Theo are both quite vocal as well - but Violet definitely takes the cake.  We have tons of dooking - not much hissing, tons of squeaking and screeching!!  On the days that we have to put on flea treatments there is a bit of whining.  Never any screaming - knock on wood - we will keep it that way!
*******************************************
Some ferrets will go their whole lives making only a few noises, and other ferrets are very vocal. There are a number of different noises that ferrets make, and they can all mean different things. With this guide to ferret noises and sounds, you'll always know what your ferret is trying to tell you!

Dooking
A "dook" is the most well-known ferret noise, and it's a sound that you will hear when your ferret is excited, playful, and happy. It sounds somewhat like a cross between a chuckle and a chattering noise. Some ferrets dook very softly or not at all, while others dook almost constantly when jumping around playing with you or his ferret friends. If your ferret dooks at you while jumping back and forth in front of you, he's trying to get you to play with him.

Hissing
A hiss means different things depending on what the ferret is doing at the time. Some ferrets hiss regularly, and it's just their way of talking. In most cases, however, ferrets indicate that they are annoyed, by hissing. It's a warning, their way of telling someone to "back off," whether they're hissing at a person or another ferret. You may see two ferrets playing until one starts hissing. The hissing ferret is probably telling the other ferret that he has had enough.

Squeaking & Screeching
Many ferrets will squeak and screech while they play, and it doesn't always mean that they're losing the fight! Some vocal ferrets will jump on another ferret while squeaking or screeching. However, in some cases it does mean that the ferret vocalizing is the one losing and he is upset. As you get to know your ferrets, you will learn which are vocal and which will only make noise when they are angry or upset about something, and you can act on their noises accordingly.

Whining & Whimpering
A ferret that whines or whimpers is generally in some kind of discomfort, pain, or he is frightened. It is not a normal noise, and if you hear it, you need to investigate. If he is whimpering because of pain and it continues, you should contact your veterinarian. If he is making these noises while going to the bathroom, schedule a veterinary appointment immediately, as this can indicate a blockage.

Screaming
When a ferret screams, it's never a good thing! A scream is generally a reaction to extreme pain or fear. In some cases, he may make it when he's extremely angry as well. Locate your ferret and find out what caused him to scream immediately - he may need your help.

This guide will help indicate your ferret's mood and communication.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?c=6067&articleid=2407&d=161&category=644

Clipping Ferret Claws

We have lots of ferret toes in this house - 100 to be exact.  Clipping nails is a full time job around here.  This is a great article that tells you the whys, whens and hows of ferret mani/pedis.  My strategy is to get them when they are sleepy and not paying much attention. Clooney and Violet hate get their nails cut - the other three are pretty good:

How and Why You Should Clip

by Gary Schooley

Ferrets are diggers. In the wild, their claws are kept short by wear from digging. Also, a wild ferret doesn't come into contact with nearly as many things that they can get claws snagged in, as domesticated ferrets do. Since domesticated ferrets don't have the same opportunity to wear their claws down as wild ferrets do, it must be done for them. If a ferret gets snagged on something, they can panic and twist around, only making matters worse. They have even been known to lose a claw / toe from it (this is why it's important to always keep a pair of scissors handy).

Un-clipped claws can get tangled in a wide assortment of materials; the sharper the claw, the finer the material it can penetrate. Some of the things to avoid are: Fleece; Terry Cloth; Flannel; Wool; Fur. I list these five because, over the years, at one time or another, even some of my own ferrets have gotten snagged on them. Nothing is more frustrating than to come home and find one of your babies sitting there on the bottom of the cage with one paw raised because it's tangled in fleece (or worse)!

Anatomy of a Snag

Unlike cats, who shed an upper (outside) "sheath" to reveal a new, sharp claw (like those grease pencils where you tear off the strip of paper), it has been my observation that a ferret seems to shed a similar sort of "sheath", but from the underside. This is perhaps due to their digging nature. The problem is, that theirs comes off from root to tip, and doesn't always happen all at once. This results in a counter-facing "barb", not unlike what's on a fish hook. Anything the claw can penetrate can get caught on this counter-facing barb.

I recently got a very good look at this when one of my ferrets got snagged on, of all things, a (fake) fur comforter type thingy that they love to play in. I never dreamed that a (regularly clipped) claw could possibly get caught in fur, but it CAN. A counter-barb formed, got hold of fifteen or twenty fur strands, and he was held fast; snagged. Black fur on a white claw showed it very clearly; hairs crossed this way and that, wedged under that barb, and he wasn't going anywhere.

Note: During playtime, I'm in the room almost constantly. If they get snagged, it's not long before I notice and bring the scissors to the rescue. It's the things in the cage, and the many hours when I'm not there to take care of it, that concern me (and should you).

Even a clipped claw can get snagged, if the material it gets snagged in is loose enough. Not too long ago, one of my boys was pursuing his usual past time of trying to disembowel my day pack. He got the zipper partially open and got hold of my wool hat, but it wasn't open enough for the hat to come out. In the meantime, he had gotten snagged. He wasn't there more than five minutes, but he was so upset that he has peed and pooped there. I was sitting there the whole time, but he didn't make any noise, and was out of sight around the end of the couch, so it took a few minutes before I noticed his absence. Poor baby...

As I cut a little hole in my wool hat to release him, I was thinking, "Maybe it's time to clip their claws again", but as I was about to clip the offending snagged claw, I noticed that they were all pretty blunt, as I had just clipped the week before. On finer cloth, they would not have snagged, but on a loose wool hat, it's pretty much impossible to cut them short enough that they won't penetrate. So, you might want to avoid wool things for your ferret, or at least be there with scissors to cut them loose if they do get snagged.

Among their countless toys are some soft, "flannel" (like?) balls with bells inside. One would not think something like that would pose a hazard to a ferret, right? Wrong! As I sat here one day, I hear this little, evenly spaced, "Ding, Ding, Ding" going across the room. During normal play, there is no such rhythm (just chaos). When I investigated, I found my littlest boy running around with a rear claw snagged on one of those balls and it was just running along side of him!

Terry cloth also poses a hazard to ferrets. It is made up of small loops, just perfect for snagging a claw. Likewise, loop carpet can do the same thing. Although I have not had a ferret snagged on loop carpet, (because there's none here anywhere), I have seen cats get snagged on it, so I have no reason to doubt that a ferret would get snagged as well.

By now, you might be wondering just what IS safe for ferrets? I like Denim and that nylon (?) wind-breaker type material that many coats are made of. In fact, I have made several slings and sleeping bags out of coat sleeves. Since they always would curl up in a coat sleeve anyway when done playing, whenever a coat expires, I save the sleeves for them. Anything that has finely woven fabric should be safe for them (as much as is possible). But, just a few days ago, one of mine got snagged on the loose threads inside a pillow case, where the seam is sewn. With ferrets, you never know exactly what to expect, so be vigilant.

When to Clip

I find it necessary to clip about every two weeks, but I would not recommend clipping more often than once a week. If you see your ferret running around and occasionally a claw gets temporarily hooked on something, but it quickly releases, it's time to clip. I've seen one of mine run across a (tight wool) comforter on the couch, and with every step, the wool is pulled up a little and then releases.

There is a thin vein that runs about half the length of the total claw. This vein tends to grow in proportion to how long the claws are kept. If they are clipped regularly, the vein will shorten, and conversely, if they are left long, the vein will be long as well. In ferrets with very dark toes, it can be difficult to see, but, with white toes, the vein is quite visible.

BE CAREFUL not to get into that vein, or they'll squeal and "bleed like a stuck pig", and you'll feel just awful! (Nope, never done that, but I've read about it). If a ferret has long claws and hasn't been kept clipped, it may take a while for the vein to shorten, so don't get in a hurry. This means, don't clip more than a quarter of the way. The main thing is to get the sharp points off.

Note: Some vets actually use a vein in the claw to take blood from, by intentionally clipping into it (I don't really favor this method; it sounds painful and traumatic, and I'm sure there's a less painful way to get blood).

How to Clip

Opinions and techniques may vary, but this is what works for me:

First, you will need something to pacify your ferret (no, don't get 'em drunk). This means you will need something like "Ferretone", a skin and coat supplement that ferrets LOVE. There are other similar products, with different names, but they are pretty much the same. Anything that's not bad for them that they like will do. Just something to hold their attention for a few minutes. Without some sort of pacification, I know of no other way to clip a squirming ferret's claws without requiring (at least) two people.

Now, that is providing that your ferret knows and likes Ferretone. Some don't. Some have never seen or tasted it and may reject it. This happened when I was given a little deaf boy. His claws seemed to have never been clipped, and needed clipping badly (he's the one who got the ball stuck to his rear claw). But, he didn't want Ferretone. So, I had to sprinkle it on his food and get him used to the taste. After a few days, when he decided that it was the best stuff he had ever tasted, and I could give it to him straight, then I could proceed to clip his claws.

You will now need a towel (ironically, terry cloth!), an ordinary (sharp) fingernail clipper, some Ferretone and a well lit place to work. It doesn't take any sort of custom clipper for this. Once you get the hang of it, it can easily be done within a minute or two.

Take the towel and fold it in half lengthwise. Lay it out flat and roll both ends toward the center. Turn it over and push it down between the rolled ends, forming a "V". This makes a perfect "hammock" to lay them in. As you clip, you may find it necessary to rotate the towel a bit; this makes it easier.

Now for the fun part. Take one squirming ferret, holding it in one hand, up near the shoulders, and (try to) lay it on its back in the "V". The quicker you get the bottle of Ferretone near its mouth, the easier it will be. Once the Ferretone has got their total attention (0.5 seconds), and their tongue starts to going, bring the tip of the bottle onto their chest and smear out some all over it. Not too high, you don't want it on their neck where they can't reach it; just all over their chest.

This should result on one hypnotized ferret, oblivious to anything but the mess on their chest they are licking. Sometimes, particularly the first few times, they might resist and try to turn over, but they soon figure it out. Just be patient. Once the ferret is pacified, you can move onto the actual clipping.

I always start with the front claws, as they seem to be the ones that get snagged most often. Some claws, particularly the rear, don't grow as fast or large as front ones do, and I occasionally don't find the need to clip them all.

Gently take one paw and lightly hold it between your fingers. It doesn't take any real pressure, just enough to hold it steady. Occasionally, the ferret may draw the paw back, then lean over it and continue licking, with both paws on one side. If this happens, it sometimes helps to re-position them in the towel; you can even lean them from side to side by simply rolling the rolled ends underneath one way or another. Just keep trying. If the ferret finishes the Ferretone before you are finished, squirt some more there. I usually give one shot for the front, then one for the rear claws.

They can be clipped from the top, or the side, but I prefer the top; it seems to give a cleaner cut. That is, look at a side profile of your finger and how you would clip your own claws, then look at a side profile of a ferret's claw, and turn the clippers 90 degrees to that (clipping vertically).

One by one, clip each claw, remembering not to take too much off. Gently hold each toe as you clip (remembering that ferrets have five claws per foot). From time to time, a ferret may suddenly jerk back when you have clipped one. I've had this happen a number of times, but there has never been any blood or squealing, so I don't think I went too far. I think this is due to a hair getting pulled, as sometimes, their fur grows down almost as long as their claws are. Anyway, they soon get over it. Once you have finished the front ten claws, it might be time to put another shot of Ferretone on them.

A word of Warning: Safety glasses may be appropriate when clipping claws. Once, a claw I had clipped flew right up into my eye! That was a VERY frustrating and painful episode, and I couldn't function at all till I got it out. I now point the opening of the clippers away from my eyes. You might also want to try to keep the claw points out of the ferret's "licking zone". It's probably not good for them to ingest them.

Now, clipping the rear claws might be a bit more challenging. That's because certain things make ferrets shiver. One of those things is Ferretone, and it is particularly evident in the rear legs. Some ferrets don't shiver much at all, so it's no problem, but some can shake violently, making it difficult to do. Imagine trying to clip the toenails of someone who has tremors; that's what it's like.

But, if you give them a thumb to push their back paws against, that usually dampens the shaking enough to get them clipped. Sometimes, they will even wrap their claws around and sort of try to "hold" it. This makes it real easy to clip right on down the line. Some professionals, who do it every day, can clip a ferret's claws in under thirty seconds.

Once you have finished, brush off any clippings, lay your ferret on the floor and it'll probably lay there licking for five minutes or so. With multiple ferrets, you can do it quick enough that you have them all lined up on the floor licking. Once they finish their own Ferretone, they'll (gladly) go help the others get it off themselves, too. Since one ferret represents 20 claws, I currently must clip 60 claws, twice a month (120 a month). Now, if you dare have something like ten ferrets, you are looking at clipping 400 claws a month! (but then, you don't need this article, do you?) So, it pays to get good at it.

One final note: Another benefit to keeping claws clipped is that they can't climb as many things as well or as high. Ferrets are so curious that they border on "suicidal", and if they can climb all the way up a screen door, or to the top of the curtains, they will. If their claws are left sharp, they can. Not being the most graceful of God's creatures and kind of clumsy, totally lacking common (domesticated) sense, they have a tendency to fall off of things. This can result in a broken back, other serious injury or even death.

That's all there is to it.

Good luck and I hope this helps.

The author, Gary Schooley, is always happy to hear from other ferret owners and get their feedback. His email address is

schooleyATmail2world.com (of course replace the AT with @)

Ease Life for Your Senior Cat

I have three of the four kitties who fall into the senior category:  Aggie at almost 17 and Ollie and Zoey pushing towards 13.  I thought this was a great article about the things you should think about when you have a senior kitty:  

With age, you may notice some changes in your cat's behavior.

She may take more time moving from spot to spot, her coat may not be as shiny or as full as it once was, and she may become more sensitive to changes. The needs of your senior cat change as she ages. By recognizing and accommodating these changes, you can make your cat's golden years more comfortable and enjoyable.

Senior Healthcare

Your senior cat is more inclined to develop a variety of age-related ailments partially due to a decline in her immune system. Regular visits to a veterinarian are essential. Early diagnosis and treatment is the key for a better quality of life. By detecting and treating one ailment, you can prevent a series of related problems that contribute to the overall decline of your cat's physical and mental health.

For example, pain due to arthritis can contribute to a lack of activity which, in turn, can lead to loss of muscle mass and tone. Movement becomes even more difficult, and depression and a series of other problems may develop. If your veterinarian diagnoses arthritis, you will need to work with your veterinarian to effectively manage the joint problem. The more your senior cat is able to move about freely, the more exercise she will get - further benefiting her overall physical and mental well-being.

Mental and Physical Stimulation
Regular exercise contributes to better mental and physical health. Incorporate play and exercise in your daily routine to help keep your senior cat physically and mentally fit. Keep her favorite toys accessible. For low-impact exercise and mental stimulation, you might also turn on her favorite "cat video." The Window Perch is an excellent way to provide both mental and physical stimulation. Allow your cat easy access to her favorite window with an Indoor Ramp or the Cat Stair-Steps.

Creating a Friendly Environment for Your Senior Cat
Though regular exercise will help maintain greater mobility, some senior cats may still have some difficulty moving about. Be sure to make everything easily accessible. If you live in a multi-level house, keep your cat's litter box on the level she stays on most frequently. Place several litter boxes throughout the house and consider litter boxes with lower sides like theCatty Corner for easier access. This will help prevent "accidents" from happening.

Minimizing Stress
With age, your senior cat's senses gradually decline. She may not see or hear as well, making her more prone to stress. Because your senior cat is less able to cope with stress, you should provide quiet areas where your senior cat can feel safe and secure. Orthopedic foam beds are ideal. The calming effects of Comfort Zone plugged near her bed can help alleviate stress. Your senior cat is also more sensitive to temperature changes. If you live in an area that experiences cold winters, provide a heated pet bed or a thermal cushion to keep her warm and comfortable.

Most behavior changes are just a part of normal aging, but in certain senior cats, it may be an indication of a more serious ailment. Don't be quick to dismiss changes as simply part of aging. Whenever you are not certain, consult your veterinarian to help ensure the quality of life your senior cat deserves.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?aid=955&ref=4612&subref=AA&cmpid=E-_-PT-_-11114-_-P8

Liver Treats and Milk Thistle

In an effort to get Miss Emma's liver numbers back in line we are trying a holistic approach - Milk Thistle:

She loves the treats - even though they smell really awful.  I am hopeful that this will do the trick.  After much research - milk thistle for pets has many many uses.  Below is a great article from Fairgrounds Small Animal Hospital:

Consider Milk Thistle for:

• Chronic Liver disease
• Acute Hepatitis
• Viral Hepatitis
• Liver poisonings including aflatoxins
• When using drugs that can injure the liver (NSAIDS, Phenobarbitol)
• Preventative in animals with history of liver disease
• Early stages of liver enzyme elevation
• Lead and Zinc poisoning
• Inflammatory cardiac (Heart) diseases
• Kidney disease
• Immune modulation
• Antioxidation
• Delays the onset and severity of diabetes
• Effective for pancreatitis
• Liver cirrhosis
• Fatty Liver

MILK THISTLE FOR PETS

I would like to tell you about a wonderful herb and a must for every pet owner’s natural medicine chest. Milk thistle, known in Latin as Silybum marianum, is one of the most effective herbs for detoxifying and regenerating the liver. I have used this herb in virtually any type of liver problem. It has saved many pets from what appeared to be a fatal condition. The liver is responsible for breaking down and eliminating most toxic substances. These include drugs, preservatives in food, artificial flavoring and coloring agents, flea sprays, dips and shampoos, environmental chemicals, chemicals found in tap water, household cleansers, air pollution, tobacco smoke and poisonous plants. Hundreds of scientific studies have demonstrated that milk thistle can protect the liver from potent toxins such as poisonous mushrooms, heavy metals and alcohol.How does it work? When the constituents of milk thistle are absorbed, they selectively accumulate in the liver. The herb has several mechanisms of action. It stimulates protein synthesis, which contributes to re-generation and replacement of liver cells. It helps protect the liver against poisoning by blocking the absorption of toxins into liver cells. It inhibits the formation of inflammatory substances that contribute to liver degeneration. It helps the liver break down toxins. Milk thistle is a potent anti-oxidant (more potent than Vitamins C and E). This means it can counteract free radical damage that can cause degenerative diseases including cancer. It increases intracellular levels of glutathione, a substance necessary for detoxicating reactions. Milk thistle has a long history of use and no significant toxicity has been seen. Clinical studies in humans have confirmed milk thistle’s benefits. Trials in more than 2,000 patients showed benefits in alcohol and chemical induced fatty liver, cirrhosis, chronic hepatitis, bile duct inflammation and non specific changes in liver tissue. Elevated liver enzymes (blood tests for liver function) also improve with milk thistle therapy. Silymarin may also help prevent or treat gallstones by increasing the solubility of the bile. The best-known active compound in milk thistle is silybin. It is important to remember that there are many other naturally occurring ingredients that are vital for optimum activity. Therefore, use the whole herb or a high quality extract. Many drugs used today have significant liver toxicity. If your pet has been medicated with antibiotics, cortisone, chemotherapy, anti-seizure medications, heartworm preventive / treatment, anti-inflammatory, etc. or has had other liver problems, you should consider a course of milk thistle. Of course, it is also important to reduce your pet’s exposure to liver toxic substances. Most drugs can be eliminated under the supervision of a holistic veterinarian through the use of natural alternatives. Toxic additives in the food and water can be reduced significantly by feeding balanced, home-prepared foods and purified water. A low toxicity flea control program can be instituted until the pet is healthy enough to no longer require it. (That’s right, healthy pets don’t have significant flea problems.) For household cleaning, vinegar and hydrogen peroxide are two safe alternatives. When shopping for milk thistle, I prefer a standardized (70 or 80% silybin) product. A typical adult human dose is 100 – 150 mg. of silybin, which is approximately 200 mg. dry herb three times daily, or the equivalent in a liquid. For pets, simply use their body weight as a percentage of the human dose. For example, a 30-pound dog would get 30% of a human dose and a 10-pound cat would get 10%. Most products purchased at health food stores have the recommended human dose on the label. Give it for 2-3 months. Medicinal herbs should not be used continuously for extended periods. I suggest 5 days on then 2 days off for 6 weeks. Skip 1 week and begin again. It could be used one week each month as a little extra protection in otherwise healthy pets. by Russell Swift DVM © Copyright June, 1999 – 2005 Russell Swift is a 1985 graduate of the University of Florida College of Veterinary Medicine. He has completed the Homeopathic Master Clinician program and currently has a holistic house call veterinarian practice in the South Florida area. He is also a consultant for several companies in the development of new nutritional supplements for pets. Dr. Russell Swift can be reached at 954-720-1624.

Recommended Dosage

Dog’s size % of adult human dose 5 lbs 10% 5-10 lbs 15% 11-20 lbs 20% 21-40 lbs 30% 41-70 lbs 50% 71-100 lbs 75% 100 lbs 100% Go here to convert weights

SILYMARIN (MILK THISTLE)
Background Milk thistle is a flower, more specifically a member of the aster family. Its seeds and roots have been used for an assortment of medical purposes for thousands of years. Three biochemicals of interest have been isolated from the milk thistle: silychristine, silydianin, and silybin. The mixture of these three substances is called Silymarin. Silymarin has been traditionally used in the treatment of liver disease and, while it has recently been advocated for use in pets, all scientific information available concerns human use. The biological mechanism of action is yet unknown but several theories exist: Silymarin may control cell membrane permeability, which means that silymarin may control what substances enter the interior of a cell. Silymarin may inhibit chemical pathways leading to inflammatory biochemicals. Silymarin may have free radical scavenging properties, which means that it may absorb harmful reactive atoms that could damage other molecules. Silymarin may increase protein production by liver cells. Silymarin may stabilize mast cells (cells containing inflammatory granules). Silymarin in higher doses increases the flow of bile. How This Medication Is Used The most scientific information concerning the use of Silymarin regards Amanita mushroom poisoning. Silymarin prevents uptake of the poison into the cells of the liver and thus prevent the lethal liver damage associated with this type of mushroom poisoning. Silymarin is regularly used for an assortment of liver diseases including cirrhosis and viral hepatitis in humans. The only actual studies conducted in dogs have concerned mushroom poisoning as above and other uses in pet species are inferred from human use. Milk thistle extracts appear to be safe to use; however, their benefit is not well defined scientifically. Side Effects At doses greater than 1.5 grams per day, the increased bile flow side effect may cause diarrhea. Side effects are very rare but the following has been reported for humans: upset stomach, headache, joint pain, weakness. Interactions with Other Drugs While there are no known drug interactions, it is important to remember that herbal medications are not held to the same standards of efficacy and safety that other drugs are. Impurities in processing may include less innocuous plant biochemicals. Concerns And Cautions Silymarin is not recommended for humans during pregnancy. It is probably a good idea not to use milk thistle products in pregnant dogs until more information becomes available. Milk thistle products should be stored at room temperature. Because herbal medications are not held to the same purity and efficacy standards as other medications, there may be tremendous variation in strength between brands or even between batches of the same brand. THE PET PHARMACY By Wendy C. Brooks, DVM, DipABVP Educational Director, VeterinaryPartner.com Web Page

Milk Thistle (Silybum marianum )

Constituents:flavolignans, silymarin (silybin, silydianin, isobilybin), bitter, amines, tannin, polyactylenes.Energy: pungent, warm, bitter, dry. Western uses: Stimulates digestion, reduces liver congestion, promotes bile flow, vitalizes blood, promotes tissue repair, reduces hepatotoxicity (autotoxicity and ingested toxins) Veterinary Examples: All animals with any form of hepatotoxicity or hepatic damage may benefit from Milk Thistle. Patients on hepatotoxic drugs, those with hepatitis, liver cirrhosis, liver degeneration, and functional biliary obstruction can be helped by this powerful herb. What do you currently know as medical options for pathological changes in liver tissue? Milk thistle may also be used as an adjunct detoxicant in any condition that is currently treated with toxic drugs. For example, if heartworms are a problem in your region, the USDA approved monthly heartworm preventatives (e.g. HeartgardTM, InterceptorTM) may be given while using milk thistle to protect the liver. Milk thistle also may be used as part of a regular detoxification program due to our inhabiting, even on the best days, a toxic planet. Lastly, during the healing and “clean-up” phase of tissue repair, the liver has extra work to do and can be benefited by Milk Thistle as a dietary addition.

Looking After Your Senior Dog's Health

Emma is considered a senior at almost 11 years old - these are some of the things I am watching for as time continues to march on....

Approximately fifty million dogs live with us in our country today. Millions of these dogs are over the age of seven and that number increases as we get older and canine healthcare gets more sophisticated.

An older dog doesn't need much more care than his younger counterpart. Depending on his condition though, he may need different food, prescription medication, or nutritional supplements. With a keen eye towards subtle changes and the care he is used to, you can help his golden years remain happy and healthy.

Head/Brain: A senior dog's happiness is paramount to his overall health. Make sure his attitude and alertness are at their peak with needed attention to such things as exercise and play. However, keep an eye out for changes such as disorientation, confusion, change in sleep habits, loss of housetraining and other signs that may indicate senility, which may be treatable with prescription medications. Be sure to mention changes to your veterinarian.

Nose (Sense of smell): An adult dog's sense of smell is about 100X more powerful than our own. Senses wane, though, as your dog gets older, so he may not smell his food as well, and may not want to eat as he once did. Try adding broth or other flavoring to his food or warm it up in the microwave to bring out the food's odor and he may be more eager to eat.

Eyes: Senior eyes may not see as well as before. You might notice what you think is a cataract, which is actually a discoloration of the eye called nuclear sclerosis that occurs as your dog gets older. Cataracts can severely impact vision; nuclear sclerosis does not. It is especially important to keep seniors' eyes clean by using an eye cleaning solution.

Ears: Many senior dogs may not hear as they did when they were younger and may seem disobedient as a result. Also, it is essential to keep your senior's ears clean, since a senior may not be able to fight off infections as easily as a younger dog. Follow a regular ear cleansing protocol - why not make it part of your grooming routine?

Dental: We can't say enough about oral health for seniors. You'll notice your dog's teeth are not as sharp as they once were, but be wary of foul breath, tartar buildup, tooth loss, or red gums which can mean gum disease. Easy ways to help include hard treats and rawhide, and a regular dental program that includes brushing teeth and visits to the veterinarian.

Heart: Some older dogs are at risk for developing diseases of the heart. Know the signs so you can get early treatment from your veterinarian. Some common signs include weakness, reduced exercise tolerance, irregular or rapid breathing, coughing, lack of appetite, weight loss, abdominal swelling or a fainting episode.

Digestive System: Some seniors don't eat enough (see Sense of Smell, above); others have a propensity for obesity. Foods formulated for seniors with higher fiber and lower fat may help. Remember, though, that an older dog's digestive tract can be delicate, so if you change your pet's food, do it slowly.

Joints: Help maintain your dog's healthy joints with supplements containing ingredients such asglucosamine and chondroitin, and keep up some form of exercise. Other things that can assist your dog's joints include ramps, elevated feeders, and an orthopedic bed.

Skin and Haircoat: A senior's skin and haircoat tend to be dry. Make sure he has the right ratio offatty acids to help keep his skin healthy.

Feet: Pets that chew or lick at their feet could have allergies, or be bored. Constant licking causes the foot to be moist all of the time, leading to hair loss, lesions, and infections. Use a product like Chew-Notto discourage licking, and then try to determine the cause.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?aid=2469&ref=4612&subref=AA&cmpid=E-_-PT-_-11114-_-P4

Top 10 Cat Conditions

I thought this was a particularly thorough article. Oliver, Zoey and Isabel (before she passed away) had hyperthyroid. Renal failure was what we eventually lost Isabel to. Stomach upset happens with Ollie and Phoebe and UTIs seem to the the ailment that is most affecting Mr Oliver Kitty these days.

What's Ailing Your Cat?

Cats may have nine lives, but you want to make sure kitty hangs on to all of them for as long as she can. No matter how much love and care you give your furry companion, things happen. But by knowing how to recognize the most common conditions affecting cats, you may just be able to save your pet's life.

10. Hyperthyroidism. The most likely cause of hyperthyroidism is a benign tumor on the thyroid gland, which will cause the gland to secrete too much of the hormone. Take your cat to the vet if it starts drinking and peeing a lot, shows aggressive and jittery behavior, suddenly seems hyperactive, vomits and/or loses weight while eating more than usual.

Treatment depends on other medical conditions but can range from using drugs to regulate the overactive gland, surgical removal of the gland, and even radioactive treatment to destroy the tumor and diseased thyroid tissue.

9. Upper Respiratory Virus. If your kitty is sneezing, sniffling, coughing, has runny eyes or nose, seems congested and has mouth and nose ulcers, chances are it has an upper respiratory virus. The two main forms of the virus are the feline herpesvirus and calicivirus. Once at the vet's office, the cat may receive nose drops, eye ointments and antibacterial medication, especially if it has a secondary infection.

8. Ear Infection. Ear infections in cats have many causes. These might include mites, bacteria, fungi, diabetes, allergies and reactions to medication; some breeds are also more susceptible to ear infections than others. So it’s definitely a good idea to have your kitty checked if it's showing symptoms such as ear discharge, head shaking, swollen ear flaps, stinky ears and ultra sensitivity to ears being touched. Treatment, of course, depends on the cause, but will include eardrops, ear cleaning, ear and oral medications and in severe cases, surgery.

7. Colitis/Constipation. Colitis is a fancy word for inflammation of the large intestine. While the most obvious sign of colitis is diarrhea, sometimes it will hurt the cat to poop. Thus, in trying to hold it in, the cat may develop constipation.

There are many causes of colitis, including bacteria, fungi, viruses, allergies and parasites, among other diseases. Signs include straining to poop, lack of appetite, dehydration and vomiting. Your vet will test for the underlying cause and treat it accordingly. This may include a more fiber-rich diet, de-worming, antibiotics, laxatives and/or fluids.

6. Diabetes. Like humans, cats suffer from diabetes, too, though this is usually seen in older, overweight cats. Symptoms include increased thirst and peeing, peeing outside the litter box, lethargy and depression.

While causes of feline diabetes are not really known, there is a link with diabetes and being overweight. Treatment, therefore, includes daily health monitoring, diet changes, exercise, and depending on the cat’s needs, either daily oral medications or injections.

5. Skin Allergies. Kitties, like you, are known to suffer from allergies, although their allergies show on the skin. If your cat scratches, or chews on its skin a lot, has a rash or loses hair in patches, a trip to the vet is a good idea.

Causes of skin allergies vary from reactions to food, fleas, pollens, mites, and even mold and mildew. Treatments may include allergy shots, diet changes, medication and antihistamines.

4. Intestinal Inflammation/Diarrhea. Diarrhea is a sure sign of an intestinal inflammation. It affects either the cat’s small or large intestine and may due to a variety of factors, including diet changes, eating contraband foodstuffs, allergies, bacteria overgrowth, worms and even kidney disease.

Symptoms include diarrhea, lack of appetite and vomiting. A visit to your vet will sort out the cause, and treatment may include hydration therapy, a bland diet, dietary changes and anti-diarrhea medications.

3. Renal Failure. This is a serious condition, which is common in older cats. While the underlying causes are not yet understood, recent research suggests a link with distemper vaccinations and long-term dry food diets. Make sure you request blood tests on your regular wellness checkups, since symptoms often don’t show up until 75 percent of the kidney tissue is damaged.

The main symptom is excessive thirst and peeing, but the cat may also show signs of drooling, jaw-clicking, and ammonia-scented breath. While it’s not curable, renal failure (when not severe) can be managed through diet, drugs and hydration therapy. Kidney transplants and dialysis can also be used.

2. Stomach Upsets (Gastritis). An inflammation of the cat's stomach lining is simply referred to as gastritis. This condition may be mild or severe, but regardless of its type, make sure you bring your cat to visit the vet if it doesn't show improvement in a day or two, or if the symptoms are severe.

Gastritis has many causes, from eating spoiled food to eating too fast to allergies or bacterial infections. If your cat is vomiting, belching, has a lack of appetite or bloodstained poop or diarrhea, a visit to the vet will help straighten things out. Treatments depend on the cause, but generally include medication, fluid therapy and even antibiotics.

1. Lower Urinary Tract Disease. Coming in at No. 1, lower urinary tract disease can turn very quickly into a life-threatening illness for your cat, especially if there’s a blockage caused by crystals, stones or plugs. When total blockage occurs, death can occur within 72 hours if left untreated.

Therefore, whisk your cat off to the vet or emergency center ASAP if you see any of the following signs: peeing outside of the litter box, straining, blood in urine, crying out while attempting to pee, not being able to pee, excessive licking of genitals, not eating or drinking, yowling while moving and lethargy. These signs will generally occur regardless if the urinary tract disease is due to stones, infection or urethral plugs. Treatment includes catheterizing to drain the bladder, medication to dissolve stones or blockages, and in recurring cases, surgery.

Top 10 Cat Conditions originally appeared on PetMD.com

The Healthiest Treats to Feed Your Ferret

I came across this Interesting article the other day.  I had to chuckle because my ferret friends are finicky.  On this list below -  options one and two are not happening.  I have tried to get them all to eat meat - they have absolutely no interest.  I often tell people I have vegan ferrets.  As for number 2 - I don't think I have it in me so we won't even go there. Finn and Theo like mealworms - the others not so much.  They are not all that much into the baby food scene.  They have no interest in eggs.  

My guys do get ferretone most days - all but Violet who doesn't care for it and Maddie who is hit or miss.  I have not had any issues with any sorts of toxicity - perhaps because its only given in small doses as a treat:

******************************************************************************

When those sparkly little eyes are gazing up longingly from that adorable fuzzy face, it can be difficult to resist the urge to indulge your ferret in whatever tempting treat the tiny trickster is trying to tease out of you. But keep in mind that as with everything in life, moderation is key; no more than 5% of your ferret's overall diet should consist of treats, and not all treats are created equal. As obligate carnivores, ferrets have very specific nutritional needs that differ from dogs, cats and especially humans. They can't eat the same type of foods or treats that you or even your other pets consume on a daily basis and remain completely healthy. Ferrets need a high protein, high fat, low fiber diet with the main protein sources coming from meat ingredients. They do not digest fruit, vegetables, grains/cereals or fiber well, and should avoid sweet/sugary foods which can lead to dental problems, obesity, and increased risk of insulinoma.

The following is a list of some great treat options to offer:

1) Meat: Freeze dried, cooked or raw (If not part of their primary diet already) Chicken, turkey, beef, salmon, organ meats like chicken liver or hearts, salt free jerky (avoid seasoned meats or processed meats like lunchmeat, salami or bacon).

2) Small prey animals (If not part of their primary diet already) - mice, chicks, quail, rats, rabbits - preferably pre-killed or thawed from frozen to prevent injury to your ferret.

3) Bugs - (live/dried) Earthworms. Mealworms. Crickets. Cockroaches. Live bait.

4) Chicken or turkey baby food - ferrets can become addicted to this stuff! It also works well as a temporary substitute for kibble if your ferret is ill or recovering from surgery and is a picky eater.

5) Eggs: raw or cooked unseasoned (remove the shell)

6) Oils - Salmon, Emu, Cod liver, Extra-virgin Olive or Extra-virgin Coconut Oils.

Vitamin supplements like FerreTone, Linatone, Furatone, FerretLax, Laxatone, Petromalt should be avoided when dealing with healthy ferrets. Vitamin A toxicity can result from too much of the "tone" supplements.

7) Commercial ferret treats - The highest quality treats are free of all sugar or soy ingredients. Here are a few good ones:

- Wysong Daily Dream Ferret Treats

- Stella & Chewys freeze dried

- PureBites Freeze dried

The following are also OK in moderation but are less preferred because of trace amounts of sugar and/or soy:

- N-Bone Ferret Chew Treats

- Cheweasel Edible Chew toys

- Fuzzys' Foamy Fries

- Brown's Natural Chicken Strips Ferret Treat

Avoid most other "ferret treats" sold in pet stores; many are high in sugar, have fruits and vegetables as the main ingredients, and almost no protein.

Do Not Feed List:

Vegetables, fruit, dried fruit (including raisins), alcohol, sugary drinks or juice, coffee and tea products, garlic or shallots, cereals, dairy products, seeds and nuts (can cause blockages), chocolate, candy, fruit snacks, peanut butter, natural chew toys not meant for ferrets (like cow hooves, pig ears or rawhide - can cause intestinal blockages in ferrets), dog or cat treats.

When in doubt - don't let your ferret eat it, even if he or she wants it! Remember... ferrets will eat a piece of deadly Styrofoam or plastic just as quickly as they will a tasty piece of meat - so they're clearly not always the best judges of what is or isn't good for them. You have to be the smart one in the family, and keep them on the safe path towards a long and healthy life; even if that means keeping them from eating things that they're absolutely convinced that they want to eat. Being the bad cop and limiting your ferret's treats will pay off when you get to enjoy the benefit of your bouncy, bright-eyed bandit's company for many more years to come.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/7871933

Giving Your Cat A Pill

Having recently gone through the pill giving process with Mr Kitty (Ollie) I thought this might be an interesting topic to cover.  Giving a cat a pill can be a nightmare. No cat wants something shoved down his throat, and he will fight you tooth and nail to prevent it. Although most cats are small in size, you’d be quite amazed with how much power they actually have. There are ways that you can get your cat to take his pills, which we will cover below.

The easiest way to give a cat pill is to crush the power into a powdery form by putting it between two spoons. Once the pill is powder, mix it in with some wet cat food. Cats that are used to eating dry cat food will see the wet food and think of it as a treat. They will normally eat it up, unaware that they just took their medicine.  This is the method I use with Ollie - I open cat food - mix the crushed pill in about a quarter of a small can, give the rest to the other kitties and make sure he eats his special food and then discard the paper plate so no one else gets any of the medication on accident.  If the medicine happens to be in capsule form, all you have to do is pry the capsule apart then sprinkle the medicine on some wet food and serve it to your pet. 

If your pet is sick, chances are (s)he may not be eating.  In this event, you should look into a pet piller. You can get these handy devices from your veterinarian. They are plastic rods that hold the pill until you press a plunger. When you get one, you should always get a long one with a softer tip.  When you get your gun, your vet should show you how to use it. The most difficult aspect of using the gun is getting your cat to open his mouth. The gun will more or less shoot the pill in the cat’s mouth, and down his throat. You’ll need to hold him tight, to make sure that he doesn’t wiggle his way loose. Once you have his mouth open, you’ll need to squeeze the trigger and pull the gun away quickly. After the pill has been inserted, make sure you give your cat a treat.

If you aren’t comfortable using the gun, you can always try giving your cat his pills by hand. To do it this way, you’ll need to hold your cat still, and open his mouth with your hand. Once you have his mouth open, you should aim for the back of his throat and throw the pill in. Once it is in his mouth, you should close his mouth with your hand and hold it shut for a few moments. This way, your cat will swallow the pill if he hasn’t already. 

If you can’t get any of the above techniques to work, you can always go to a local pharmacy and get them to a make flavored gel or liquid using your cats medication. You should use this as a last resort though, as it can tend to get expensive.